Second in a Series of a Bucket List Trip to Beer Heaven...for more details on a subject, click the links provided.
The Cities
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| Larry Porter at his favorite waffle stand |
Our trip, sponsored by Larry Porter of Porters’ Pub and
Arawjo Tours, took us to essentially three destination cities: Brugge (Bruges), Gent
(Ghent) and Brussels. Of course, our brewery excursions took us to smaller
cities and towns, but these three were highlighted. We stayed four nights in
Brugge and three in Brussels, stopping in Gent for a few hours along the way.
The cities are very different in terms of layout, size and architecture. But
all are steeped in the Belgian beer tradition.
Brugge
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| Brugge, Belgium |
Without question, Brugge was the most charming of the cities
in my view. A medieval town, replete with winding, cobblestone streets, large
medieval/gothic style buildings and cathedrals, as well as expansive public
squares, it is also dissected by various canals. You can research the history
of this important city here.
It’s definitely a town for walkers, and not the kind from
the Walking Dead. I’d suggest taking
a guided walking tour, as you’ll see parts of the city you might not stumble
upon if you decided to self-direct. But horse-drawn carriages (a tad expensive)
and bateaux (canal boats) are also great
ways to see the city. Only €7 (Euro) got us each a delightfully picturesque and
informative half-hour canal boat tour, a most interesting way to see the city.
Good weather helped. It would be a far less pleasant experience in the rain.
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| A canal tour in four languages... |
Off the main square or Markt, there is plenty to keep you
occupied and informed, as well as well-fed and beer-sated. The Historium is an
interactive, walk-through display that provides an excellent overview of what
Brugge was like when it was a major hub for trade. At the conclusion of the
production, you’ll be deposited directly into the Duvelorium, a classy pub
overlooking the Markt and stocked with a wide array of Belgian beers,
especially those from Duvel, natch. One caveat—if you need to use the WC (either
before or after beer), bring €.50 for access.
And speaking of beer, this writer found the Bier Museum,
just twenty yards off The Markt, to be a fascinating place. You get your own
iPad which is set to give you a wealth of information when aimed at the
appropriate insignia on each display. Whether you know nothing about beer or
consider yourself well versed, this two-storied attraction will broaden your
knowledge; so much so, that I suggested to affable manager Lars Pillen that he
present a keepsake diploma to everyone who makes it through, an idea he embraced. This attraction
also ends at a comfortable, airy bier emporium where a tasting of beers is
included in the admission price. You can also buy more, if so inclined, and the
bathrooms are free.
Regardless of your religious leanings, you may also want to
venture in to the Basilica of The HolyBlood in the Burg Square. This building, free to enter, was constructed in
the 1100’s, and I was impressed just to be in it, let alone to marvel at
its stunning interior. As legend has it, a cloth with Christ's blood is preserved in a capsule there, and many have come to pray in its presence.
There are a host of other buildings to see and enter,
including the famous Belfort (Bell Tower), which you can climb to see
spectacular views of this fairy-tale town.
Gent (Ghent)
Also an impressive old town, this city has a mixture of
Gothic style places and canals, as well as some more modern buildings and a
more modern “feel.” A “college town,” you’re likely to see far more students as
you walk through. But by all means, visit St. Bavo’s Cathedral. Currently
undergoing restoration, it is still accessible, massive—and free. Gothic
cathedrals, which sometimes took up to sixty years to build, are designed to
draw your eyes heavenward whether inside or outside, and St. Bavo’s is no
exception. But be sure to go downstairs into the crypt to see the tombs of
various bishops, their clothing, their treasures and other statuary. Also worth
noting are the frescos painted (at the time) on the pillars in wet chalk.
Covered over by regular paint for many years, their presence is a relatively
recent discovery.
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| Statuary outside St. Bavo's Cathedral, Gent |
Brussels
Brussels is as big and bustling as you would expect the
capital of Belgium and “the Heart of Europe” to be. Yet, her historical roots
are on full display in a host of places around the city, and in the spectacular
buildings on the Grand Place—including the very house where Karl Marx first
penned Das Kapital.
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| A side street of restaurants near the Grand Place in Brussels |
Our hotel was also a half-block from the legendary beer bar La Morte Subite, but more about that
later. Surrounded by pubs and restaurants our home base was ideal and didn’t
require spending a single Euro to navigate, unless you opted, as we did one day,
for a three-hour luxury bus City Tour. That showed us much more than we could
have seen on foot, including The Atomium, the National Basilica and various
other must-see sites, many with spectacular panoramic views. In fact, the
normally sleepy National Basilica was abuzz with activity during our visit, as
it was prepping for a visit by King Philip the next day to commemorate the end
of WW1. Student choirs, a thousand voices strong, were on hand for the event,
and lighting was being set up for this major TV event. Our group traveled to
the rooftop to gather in some outstanding city views.
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| View from the roof of the National Basilica |
Brussels was also proximate to various lambic breweries
which we visited, too, but again, those will be discussed in a separate
section. For all its sophisticated modernity, many of Brussels’ streets are
still narrow and winding. Whatever those bus drivers get paid to navigate them
is far too low.
An important point about tipping: it is not considered
compulsory there, as servers' tips are already built in to the tab, as well as a
VAT (Value Added Tax). Supposedly, they do not rely on tips to make a
comfortable living. I wish I had learned that ahead of time—and before
earning the title of “the Generous American” at every pub and restaurant
previously.
And though Euros are neat, they do resemble play money a bit. But
every dollar is equal to just .8 of a Euro. So be advised: a €50 tab isn’t $50. The rate changes daily, but at this writing, it’s equivalent to $62.14.
And that ain’t play money by anyone’s definition.
Bottom line? Belgium is beautiful, but beautiful doesn’t
come cheap.
Coming next: The Pubs and Restaurants
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