The Tastes, They Are A-Changin'

Whenever I meet someone new at a beer event and hand them my card, their first question is usually, "What's your favorite beer?"

It's then that I trot out the somewhat tired, but ever-trusty old icebreaker line: "Like my underwear--Depends." The self-deprecating line works all of the time, but more importantly, it's absolutely true. Except for the underwear reference. So far, anyway.

And it always has been true. Changing seasons always cause my fridge to be stocked accordingly, with Fall and Winter seeing a plethora of Marzens and higher-alcohol beers (like imperial stouts, porters, tripels and quads) respectively. Spring and summer see maibocks and pale ales (India and otherwise) and pilsners. It's a formula I haven't varied--until this year.

And I blame Pilsner Urquell. Not the usual bottled product that's available in your local liquor locker, but a rare batch I sampled down at the Asbury Park Festhalle last May. I had been invited by Events Manager Jen Lambert to cover a story about a very special batch of unfiltered, unpasteurized Pilsner Urquell that was appearing stateside, along with its affable brewer, Vaclav Berka and its beer-savvy promoter Bryan Panzica. You can read that account here.

But that special batch of Pilsner Urquell (4.4% ABV) sparked a renewed interest for me in pilsners. Maybe because this was a warmer than average Fall and Winter, I found my beer tastes turning to good pilsners more often than to heavy imperial stouts and butt-kicking triples and quads.

Apparently, I was not alone, as this article from Jason Notte attests.  Victory's Prima Pils, Oskar Blues' Mama's Little Yella Pils, Firestone Walker's Pivo Pils, Six Point's The Crisp and too many others to mention satisfied my taste buds as well as my thirst through much of the winter of 2016. Even during that one big snowfall, I'd down a crisp, clean Pilsner to slake my shoveling thirst--before relaxing with something heavier and higher in alcohol. I came to understand why Josef Groll's "new" beer in 1842 turned so many heads when it made its debut.

Jen Lambert and Brewer Vaclav Berka

 I exhorted Jen to do another Pilsner Urquell Special, hopefully this May if she can. As I wrote here, the Czechs take their beer seriously. That story about The Golden Lion handing you your hat and taking your barstool if you're not drinking enough beer is proof enough. 

Of course, it all depends on the beer you're drinking.
Yup. Depends.



Cheers!
The PubScout

Is That a Baby Ruth in the Pool?

Ever the sophomore, I can delight in the harmless fun of a prankster throwing a Baby Ruth into a pool of swimmers. But I'm not one to toss one into the wort (unless it's part of the recipe) or to intentionally spray the sparge where it shouldn't go. However, there comes a time when speaking out is important. I wrote the first draft of this column the day the article in question appeared online, but I have revised and revisited it frequently since in an attempt to remove the blazing ghost pepper hotness of my initial reaction and replace it with a subdued jalapeño flavor. Hopefully, I have succeeded. But if not, grab a piece of bread or a beer to take away the burn.

Keep in mind as you read this that no disrespect is intended or aimed at the authors of the article in question, nor to those on the panel of experts who helped produce it, some of whom I count as friends; but I believe a slight, albeit unintentional, has been given.
Herewith my take:

The PubScout is not a big fan of “Best of’s” in anything, but especially in things associated with such a personal and subjective category as beer.

Recently, NJ Monthly did an article about the “Sweet Sixteen” NJ breweries as rated by a panel of experts. Not that there aren’t breweries on this list who make great beer...there are, and I’ve patronized and written about many of them.  

But a panel of experts is no more authoritative when it comes to beer preferences than the Academy Awards Committee is authoritative when it comes to pictures, or whichever panel picks the Grammys for music. 

Rap, for example, doesn’t count as music to my ear, though its popularity can’t be denied. Same thing with sour beers. Am I less of a beer-lover because I eschew sour beers like Timmerman’s Oude Kriek, Oude Gueze or Faro? And I know at least one fine, longtime Jersey brewer (who shall remain nameless) who says, “At my brewery, sour beers are poured down the drain.”

In the end, the “experts” know only what they like—just like you and me, and that’s the beauty of beer. Everybody’s an expert on what we like. 

But a few questions arise in my mind. First, why just sixteen? Sixteen seems to be rather an arbitrary number unless we're looking for a hip, current events connection to March Madness. Is that why there’s a bracket-style vote on another page?

According to the NJCB page, there are now forty-five craft breweries in NJ. I am not in a position to tell any publication what kind of stories it should be doing (as you can see, nobody tells me what to write about). Those decisions are based on what it thinks its readers will like (and, of course, ad sales). But this article thrusts all forty-five breweries in NJ--whether they signed on to play in this particular tournament or not-- into a competition for publicity that rewards just sixteen of them. What criteria eliminated the others from consideration? The article didn't say. But it should have.

As one brewer with whom I spoke said:

“…this type of unsolicited competition does not help to unify the breweries of NJ, when in fact that is exactly what we need to do as we attempt to grow the industry in NJ by changing some of the antiquated alcohol laws that are still on the books.  Why not represent all of the breweries and maybe highlight a few with interesting anecdotes... about unique beers, owners'/brewers' experiences, tasting rooms, or GABF medal winning, for example?

Another responded:"While it is always nice to be recognized, we are not big fans of comparison lists. We cater to experience junkies...those that still love to come out to breweries to visit, try something new and talk about beer." 

And still another added: "I think the 'Best of's' are way overused--repetitive, redundant and boring. Having said that, my real issue with these lists is labeling them as something they are not. Why ask what's the 'best' brewery when you clearly mean 'favorite?' Ask people to tell you why; don't just publish a meaningless list."

Some of those who were named to the Sweet Sixteen have already begun using the "honor" in promos, but what about those good brewers who just got passed over by an arbitrary rating system? Will their homepage have to carry a banner like: “We didn’t make NJ Monthly’s Sweet Sixteen, but we’re just as good!"

More importantly, the article requires a thinking beer drinker to ask two simple questions: 

1.   Has everyone on the panel actually sampled and studied beers from all the breweries? and, if not,

2.   Why should I listen to them?


Have they sampled and evaluated the great beers from Angry Erik, Beach Haus, Boaks, Cricket Hill, Cypress, Climax or Demented? How about those of Flounder and Little Dog—whose owner and founder won a Gold Medal at the GABF?

Don't misunderstand. It's great that the mag is talking up craft beer, because it's definitely an exciting time for beer nuts in Jersey. I haven’t sampled the beers of every brewery in the list of forty-five either, but I’m working on it, which is what makes it both challenging and fun.  And I’ve had many delightful beers from  those breweries that failed to make the “cut.”

To my (admittedly archaic) way of thinking, a beer writer’s purpose is to alert the beer drinking world to what beers are out there, and, with our writing skill, to entice beer drinkers to try them. If they don’t like them, nothing ventured, nothing gained. We tried.

An Offer You Can't Refuse...

If they do like them, however, we have added to the craft beer boom in immeasurable ways. Our purpose is not to present ourselves as "holier than thou," because we are not. Beer drinkers already know what they like. Yet, don't lists like this seem to imply, however subtly, that if these breweries aren’t your faves, too, you cannot possibly be as “beer cool” as the experts? I am sure that the intent was not to denigrate or disrespect any brewery or beer folk, but intentions and perceptions don't always jibe. 

Am I, then, just a hopeless beer outlier for enjoying the beers that Gretchen Schmidhausler, Dave Hoffman and Heide Hassing produce? Or those of Jeremy Lees, Tom Pryzborowski, Charlie Backmann or Tom Zuber?

Beers on the Boards Crowd

And besides bragging rights for the lucky winners, who benefits by this arbitrary competition when close to thirty potential breweries contributing positively to NJ's beer scene have been summarily dismissed? 

I am quite sure that most beer nuts in NJ are ecstatic that microbreweries are blossoming in the Garden State like dandelions in the Spring.

I am not so sure that picking sixteen of them for preferential publicity serves our—or any—purpose, however.

Gotta run. 
Pool season is coming, and I'm out of Baby Ruths.

Cheers!

The PubScout






The Uno’s Phoenix Rises

Establishing your restaurant as a beer dinner hotspot takes a lot of work—and a lot of time. And once that run is broken—for whatever reason—it could be “back to square one” in the attempt to build up your clientele again, especially with so many new beer events taking place in NJ.

In its heyday, Uno’s on Rt. 1 in Metuchen was seating and feeding 40-45 beer and food nuts in its back room—which is a perfect spot for a beer dinner. But it took years of successful management of the attendant logistics—beer, food and service—to reach those levels. Early beer dinners had fewer than ten attendees sometimes, but the guest list grew as word got around that there was indeed something very cool happening in Uno’s backroom.

Some of those Uno's Dinners were hard work...

 Once the very popular and successful dinners stopped, however, no one knew what would happen if the dinners were revived. Would we go back to square one and ten people, the principals wondered?

Short answer: Nope. Try thirty. Because that’s how many came out for a collaborative beer dinner between Uno’s Brewer Mike Sella and the “new guys on the block,” Cypress Brewing. Just seven months after getting out of the gate, the Cypress guys, Charlie Backmann, Jason Kijowski and Bill Lutz are off and running like Triple Crown winner American Pharoah, with new, completely unfiltered styles coming out regularly.

Last night’s event featured a collaboration brew between Kijowski and Sella called Riley’s Red Rye, and it was outstanding. A beautiful beer, it was as much a delight to the palate as it was to the eye. Interestingly, Backmann provided an extra sample made at Cypress to Official Taster Joe Skelly and me. Side by side, the Uno’s version and the Cypress version looked almost exactly alike, but the Cypress version had a somewhat stronger taste, while Sella’s version had notes of spice and sweetness to my palate. Both, however, were excellent, and Sella’s redheaded daughter Riley would have been proud of the reception her beer got all around. Both places have it on tap, too.

Riley's Red Rye

It accompanied the main course last night, and it worked wonderfully with the succulent pork—a massive Dijon Pork Loin the size of Rhode Island, served in rye ale with Dijon Sauce, caramelized onions, Fingerling Potatoes and Asparagus.

Photo credit: Natalie Lay

The night began, of course, following the time tested plan of cheeses, fruit and crackers accompanied by Mike’s 32-Inning Ale, and the soup course was a delicious Lentil with Cypress’s outstanding Nut Brown.

A beautiful Insalata Tre-Colore with radicchio, mesclun and arugula bathed in a Cypress 17-Mile IPA dressing came out next, joined by that same beer. If you’re an IPA guy, you definitely want to snag some of this stuff.

Photo credit: Natalie Lay

 And for those in the know, Mike Sella’s own Ike’s IPA has been a crowd pleaser for fifteen years. It complemented two large chicken empanadas served with fresh jalapeno, avocado and green olives for the appetizer course.

Dessert  was a large, three-flavored Tartufo in a chocolate shell swimming in raspberry coulis. It was topped off by Cypress’s outstanding Imperial Stout with Chocolate and Raspberry.

Photo credit: Natalie Lay

Just as in the old days, there were smiles and compliments all around at night’s end, indicating that the Phoenix has apparently risen. Joe Skelly noted that while he missed the usual Uno’s faces around the table he had come to know and love, it was exciting to see all the new faces that came out.

Photo credit: Natalie Lay

 Maybe the “old-timers” will return once word gets out, and we’ll be up to 45 before you know it. Last night’s event was surely a step in the right direction.

It would benefit both the "newbies" and the "oldbies," if this picture is any indication.

Joe Skelly and Natalie Lay

Here are more candids from last night's event:

Cheers!

The PubScout

Go Ahead; Make a Liar Out of Me

I recently featured Dan Schneider of The Stirling Hotel as a Guest Blogger, and he penned a great account of a recent New England Beer Dinner held at his pub. As an afterword, I added that he and his hard-working, topnotch staff would take a brief hiatus from beer dinners--at least until Spring arrives. 

What does he do? He orchestrates a "mini-beer dinner" by having a tap takeover with Southern Tier on March 10 at 5 PM. The event will feature some rare ST beers paired with three "prix fixe" courses. Extremely rare and limited Four Headed Woolly Mammoth, 2XSMaSH DIPA, Where the Helles Summer? and Live will be on draft and paired with whatever his wunderkind chefs Ryan and Brandon can come up with. Considering what they've already generated from the Hotel kitchen, it's probably safe to say that at the very least, the dishes will be phenomenal.

"Hoss" adds that it "won't be nearly as extravagant as our regular beer dinners, but should be a fun time." I suppose he can hide behind a technicality when it comes to my writing that "In any event, Schneider and company will take some time off before presenting another beer dinner..." because, technically speaking, this event is not a beer dinner.

But with those beers and three courses, he's walking a very thin line. I will have to attend just to see that the line isn't crossed, I suppose.

You probably should, too. As soon as I have more info as to menu items and price, I'll share it.

This guy is wearing me out! But, sheesh! What a way to go...

Cheers!
The PubScout

Guest Blog: Dan Schneider of The Stirling Hotel

I've already written extensively about the gem of a pub up in Stirling, NJ called the Stirling Hotel. Deceptive in its small front facade, but big "out back" and very big inside when it comes to beer and food, this place is a craft beer and good food lover's dream. Dan Schneider is the manager of the place, and last month he hosted the first ever beer dinner at the hotel, a Colorado Beer and Game Dinner. It was so wildly successful, he decided to do another in less than a month, a risky move in most venues.

But not here. That's because "Hoss" Schneider follows a simple principle: If you fail to prepare, prepare to fail. At a Schneider beer dinner, therefore, there is no chance of failure, at least with things over which the hotel has control. Food prep and presentation, beer pairings, service and decor are all meticulously planned. 

Inclement weather, for example, would not be one of those "planned for" things. Or tornados. Neither are previously scheduled responsibilities  for those, like me, who would have loved to attend, but could not.

So the day after the dinner, I (as the millennials would say) "hit up" Dan for a summary of the dinner. Always a gentleman, and ever-dedicated to the cause of good beer and good food, he provided the account below.

If you, like me, couldn't make this event, you, like me, will wish you could have. Here's Dan's account:

We hosted about 40 people for our New England Craft Beer Dinner. The theme was not only New England craft beer, but the dishes were all playful renditions inspired by classic New England cuisine.

The heated tent was tastefully decorated by Meghan Bury in a nautical theme, with buckets and seashells adorning each table. Among the forty guests I'd estimate that only five or so were repeats from the first dinner. (Apparently, word gets out.)

Brewery reps in attendance included John Kleinchester (Two Roads Brewery), Pat Fondiller & Joe Garcia (Smuttynose Brewing Co), and JJ Fitzgerald & Seth Osten (Hunterdon Distributors).  Each was kind enough to take part once again, giving us background info about their respective breweries and expert descriptions of the beers.

Cape Cod Oyster with Cucumber Rice

Our welcome cocktail, crafted by our resident mixologist Danny Moeri, consisted of Barr Hill Gin with honey-horseradish simple syrup, cucumber water, and fresh lemon paired with a Cape Cod Oyster with cucumber ice & horseradish foam. (I never even heard of horseradish foam!)

First Course was a play on the lobster roll, with toasted brioche, brown-butter poached lobster, scallion aioli, and frisee. It was a huge hit paired with Maine Beer Co.'s Peeper, an American pale ale, light bodied with bright citrus notes and hints of lemon.

Lobster roll

Second Course was inspired by Boston baked beans. Chefs Ryan Chatfield & Brandon Campney made their own pork sausage, accompanied by a white bean puree and a smoked molasses sauce. Allagash Saison, with its spicy Belgian yeast character and dry finish served as a counterpoint to the house-made sausage and creamy bean puree.

House made pork sausage 

Third Course was Ryan & Brandon's take on New England Clam Chowder. Seared Halibut rested atop potatoes & celery root in a silky clam veloute with bacon lardons and herb oil. 

( Veloute? Lardons? Who knows these things?)

John Kleinchester from Two Roads gave a little background about the Connecticut brewery and explained that the tart wheat beer Geyser Gose was a collaborative effort with Evil Twin that utilized ingredients of Icelandic origin, including moss, herbs, sea kelp, skyr, and birch smoked sea salt. Together, the dish and the beer had a beautiful interplay of briny flavors reminiscent of New England's rich nautical history.

Seared Halibut atop Potatoes and Celery Root

Thanksgiving dinner was our inspiration for the Fourth Course. Smoked Duck Breast was served with cranberry glaze, apple-walnut bread pudding, and parsnip puree. Instead of beer, we opted to go with Downeast Cider House Maple Blend from Massachusetts. This unfiltered cider, fermented with ale yeast and brewed with a hint of maple syrup and roasted pecans, was a great accompaniment to a wonderfully prepared dish. The fruity and nutty aspects of both the dish and the cider worked together in a way that brought each to another level. (Cider? At a beer dinner? with a main course? Talk about pushing the envelope...)

Smoked Duck Breast--paired with cider!

Our good friends at Smuttynose were kind enough to provide us with the only keg in New Jersey of their marvelous dessert beer, Rocky Road Stout. Pat shared a few words about the brewery, which after more than twenty years in the business is continually expanding and currently working on becoming a certified "green" brewery. (I'm already green...with envy.)

Fluffernutter Whoopee Pie

The beer is brewed with Marshmallow Fluff (a New England creation, who knew?) as well as cacao nibs and is then aged on amaretto soaked oak chips. Once we procured a beer with Fluff in it, we knew that Fluffernutter whoopie pies were the only way to go for dessert. They served as a light-hearted end to what we hope was another great food and beer experience for our guests. We want to thank our chefs, management team, and most importantly, all who attended for making our New England Craft Beer Dinner such a memorable night.

Brewery reps hoist a glass to The Stirling Hotel
Photo credit: Pat Fondiller

 Man, this guy has skills! He not only manages, he can write! In the interests of full disclosure, Dan (via John Baldassarre except for the one at left) provided all the pictures as well. And those pictures were superbly shot, making The PubScout wish he had altered his schedule to attend. (Did you see that Duck?) The Stirling Hotel leaves no detail to chance as the picture below of a typical table setting will attest.

Photo credit John Baldassarre

In any event, Schneider and company will take some time off before presenting another beer dinner, and if Winter's expected early exit occurs, the next one could take place in the outdoor Biergarten. As soon as "Hoss" sends me the date, I'll share it with you.

We'll need to clear our schedules.

Cheers! 

The PubScout