The Belgium Trip--Part 2-- The Cities

Second in a Series of a Bucket List Trip to Beer Heaven...for more details on a subject, click the links provided.

The Cities

 

Larry Porter at his favorite waffle stand

Our trip, sponsored by Larry Porter of Porters’ Pub and Arawjo Tours, took us to essentially three destination cities: Brugge (Bruges), Gent (Ghent) and Brussels. Of course, our brewery excursions took us to smaller cities and towns, but these three were highlighted. We stayed four nights in Brugge and three in Brussels, stopping in Gent for a few hours along the way. The cities are very different in terms of layout, size and architecture. But all are steeped in the Belgian beer tradition.

Brugge

 

Brugge, Belgium

Without question, Brugge was the most charming of the cities in my view. A medieval town, replete with winding, cobblestone streets, large medieval/gothic style buildings and cathedrals, as well as expansive public squares, it is also dissected by various canals. You can research the history of this important city here.

It’s definitely a town for walkers, and not the kind from the Walking Dead. I’d suggest taking a guided walking tour, as you’ll see parts of the city you might not stumble upon if you decided to self-direct. But horse-drawn carriages (a tad expensive)  and bateaux (canal boats) are also great ways to see the city. Only €7 (Euro) got us each a delightfully picturesque and informative half-hour canal boat tour, a most interesting way to see the city. Good weather helped. It would be a far less pleasant experience in the rain.

 

A canal tour in four languages...

Off the main square or Markt, there is plenty to keep you occupied and informed, as well as well-fed and beer-sated. The Historium is an interactive, walk-through display that provides an excellent overview of what Brugge was like when it was a major hub for trade. At the conclusion of the production, you’ll be deposited directly into the Duvelorium, a classy pub overlooking the Markt and stocked with a wide array of Belgian beers, especially those from Duvel, natch. One caveat—if you need to use the WC (either before or after beer), bring €.50 for access.

And speaking of beer, this writer found the Bier Museum, just twenty yards off The Markt, to be a fascinating place. You get your own iPad which is set to give you a wealth of information when aimed at the appropriate insignia on each display. Whether you know nothing about beer or consider yourself well versed, this two-storied attraction will broaden your knowledge; so much so, that I suggested to affable manager Lars Pillen that he present a keepsake diploma to everyone who makes it through, an idea he embraced. This attraction also ends at a comfortable, airy bier emporium where a tasting of beers is included in the admission price. You can also buy more, if so inclined, and the bathrooms are free.

Regardless of your religious leanings, you may also want to venture in to the Basilica of The HolyBlood in the Burg Square. This building, free to enter, was constructed in the 1100’s, and I was impressed just to be in it, let alone to marvel at its stunning interior. As legend has it, a cloth with Christ's blood is preserved in a capsule there, and many have come to pray in its presence.

There are a host of other buildings to see and enter, including the famous Belfort (Bell Tower), which you can climb to see spectacular views of this fairy-tale town.

Gent (Ghent)

Also an impressive old town, this city has a mixture of Gothic style places and canals, as well as some more modern buildings and a more modern “feel.” A “college town,” you’re likely to see far more students as you walk through. But by all means, visit St. Bavo’s Cathedral. Currently undergoing restoration, it is still accessible, massive—and free. Gothic cathedrals, which sometimes took up to sixty years to build, are designed to draw your eyes heavenward whether inside or outside, and St. Bavo’s is no exception. But be sure to go downstairs into the crypt to see the tombs of various bishops, their clothing, their treasures and other statuary. Also worth noting are the frescos painted (at the time) on the pillars in wet chalk. Covered over by regular paint for many years, their presence is a relatively recent discovery.

Statuary outside St. Bavo's Cathedral, Gent

 There are certainly other things to see here, like St. Nicholas’ Church and Gravensteen, but our limited time, and the rather chilly, windy and raw weather did not allow for a more extensive experience. (That same weather, however, gave us a perfect excuse to seek shelter and sustenance in a pub.)

Brussels

Brussels is as big and bustling as you would expect the capital of Belgium and “the Heart of Europe” to be. Yet, her historical roots are on full display in a host of places around the city, and in the spectacular buildings on the Grand Place—including the very house where Karl Marx first penned Das Kapital.

 

A side street of restaurants near the Grand Place in Brussels

Our hotel, the beautiful Radisson Collection Hotel, Grand Place Brussels was a short walk to the Place and other interesting places, like the statue of Manneken Pis. I still don’t understand why a statue of a little boy urinating is such a tourist magnet, but it is.

Our hotel was also a half-block from the legendary beer bar La Morte Subite, but more about that later. Surrounded by pubs and restaurants our home base was ideal and didn’t require spending a single Euro to navigate, unless you opted, as we did one day, for a three-hour luxury bus City Tour. That showed us much more than we could have seen on foot, including The Atomium, the National Basilica and various other must-see sites, many with spectacular panoramic views. In fact, the normally sleepy National Basilica was abuzz with activity during our visit, as it was prepping for a visit by King Philip the next day to commemorate the end of WW1. Student choirs, a thousand voices strong, were on hand for the event, and lighting was being set up for this major TV event. Our group traveled to the rooftop to gather in some outstanding city views.

View from the roof of the National Basilica

Brussels was also proximate to various lambic breweries which we visited, too, but again, those will be discussed in a separate section. For all its sophisticated modernity, many of Brussels’ streets are still narrow and winding. Whatever those bus drivers get paid to navigate them is far too low.

An important point about tipping: it is not considered compulsory there, as servers' tips are already built in to the tab, as well as a VAT (Value Added Tax). Supposedly, they do not rely on tips to make a comfortable living. I wish I had learned that ahead of time—and before earning the title of “the Generous American” at every pub and restaurant previously. 

And though Euros are neat, they do resemble play money a bit. But every dollar is equal to just .8 of a Euro. So be advised: a €50 tab isn’t $50. The rate changes daily, but at this writing, it’s equivalent to $62.14.

And that ain’t play money by anyone’s definition.

Bottom line? Belgium is beautiful, but beautiful doesn’t come cheap.

Coming next: The Pubs and Restaurants

The Belgium Trip--Part 1

Author's Note: 2014 was a wild ride for me and my family. First there was the downside. Certainly many of you know that my formerly healthy 27-year-old son was stricken with a rare kidney disease. There is a link to his page on the right.
But on the upside, 2014 also marked the fulfillment of a long-time dream for this beer writer: a trip to Beer Heaven--aka Belgium.
The missus and I had planned this trip long before we got the bad news about our son, and it would have been financially unsound to cancel it. Besides, we figured, with our son in the capable hands of family down in NC, we could use the distraction. The Pubscout is generally a pessimist, because these folks are never disappointed. But in this case, I chose optimism--to look on the bright side, as it were--if for nothing else than to buoy my spirits for the long run.

So away we went for nine days. We are both glad we did. 

Anyway, here's the first of five installments!

If It’s Tuesday, It Must Be Jackson

Way back in 1998, this budding beer writer, just two years into his craft, was invited to the Belgian Consulate in New York for the launching of a new book by a guy named Michael Jackson. The book was called Great Beers of Belgium, and the closest I ever expected to get to Belgium was the Belgian Consul’s handsome Park Avenue apartments on that day. The link to that early story is here, and it’s worth reading, if for nothing more than its rather prophetic title message. And the pictures of me and the Belgian Consul.

 

Michael Jackson and The PubScout--1998

Michael Jackson, of course, has since gone on to his eternal rest in God’s Brewery, but his impact on the world beer scene has been eternally monumental. We both looked somewhat younger then, but The PubScout’s inexperienced palate and youthful nose eventually intended to get somewhere in Jackson’s ballpark—at least through the gate.

After returning from Belgium this week, I dug out the copy of the book Michael gave me that September day in 1998. He asked me what I thought of the Kwak I was drinking. I responded with just one word: heavenly.

The inimitable Mr. Jackson wrote accordingly when he my signed book.

I saw and heard him speak many times after that. We dined together on occasion and compared notes on beer—but most often on life. His favorite opening line, delivered with his signature British accent, was, “Some say you will live longer if you don’t drink beer. That’s not true. It only seems longer.” And the line never failed to get a hearty laugh from those assembled.

Because he was right.

What follows is not a story on the Great Beers of Belgium. That’s already been done by a master. But what follows (in sequence) is my take on a recent trip to Belgium—aka Beer Heaven. I’ll post one a day till 2015 gets here. That way, you won’t be overwhelmed, and I won’t get writer’s cramp (or I guess it would be carpal tunnel syndrome today).

I didn’t visit every pub or drink every available beer. One week—shucks, one lifetime—wouldn't be enough for that. But I had some distinct impressions about some of the cities and beers of this wonderful beer country, and I’d like to share them with you, in the event you—a beer nut—ever undertake a journey to Beer Heaven.

Thank you, Michael Jackson, for introducing me to Belgian beer.

I raise my heavenly glass of Kwak—and every Belgian beer I drink-- to you.

Coming next: The Cities

The Brit's Backyard Booket Brew

Backyard Brewer in action

"I was young, stupid and poor," said Paul Edwards when explaining how he got into homebrewing in his native England. "I liked beer, but was too young to buy it, and I had no money anyway. So I began making it myself."

He shared this tidbit with me while drinking an English IPA he and girlfriend Nancy Sapanara had made in August, and while watching over a five-gallon batch of what will become a Belgian Wit a few weeks hence.

Edwards had rigged up his own nano-brewery in Nancy's Warren backyard, and with a firepit going full bore to ward off the chill, Edwards, clad in shorts, put to work a brewkit he had purchased online. "It's really not very difficult," he said in his classic British accent. "Besides the ingredients, what you really need to make beer is just bookets."

Which is "buckets" to us Americans. He also used a chicken fryer to heat the water that would become wort after he put in his giant teabags of grain. Hooked up to a propane gas tank, it worked perfectly for not just one, but two batches of beer to be brewed on this sunny, but chilly, day. The chill clearly did not affect Edwards, but the rest of us sidled up to the firepit or the wort kettle occasionally to catch some warmth, or to inhale the smell of the sweet wort or to watch chestnuts exploding in an open fire.

Bookets

The English IPA he had crafted previously was stored in one-gallon kegs, kept cold by lying in the snow just off the patio. It was damned good and very smooth. He and Nancy put out some excellent food for a select group of friends that had been invited over for what was called Black Friday Brewing, and I learned that Edwards was as good in the kitchen as he was at the kettle. His perfectly seasoned British Sausage and Peppers were outstanding, and the pierogies he brought from a Polish guy near his Passaic digs were equally so after he got done preparing them.

After adding the hops and extra ingredients, he ended the boil while carefully monitoring the temperature of the wort, using the only item that didn't come with the kit-- a separately-purchased wort-chiller--which Edwards claimed to be a boon to the process.

Nancy and Paul at work

He pitched his liquid yeast and carted off the "booket" to the cellar. And no sooner was the first beer safely stored, OG numbers dutifully recorded by Nancy, than the naked legged brewer and good beer fancier began another--an Oatmeal Stout this time.

Guests brought over a wide variety of beers, planting their gifts in Nancy's snow-covered garden. The more guests that appeared, the larger the "Biergarten" grew.

Edwards' beers will be ready in a little over two weeks, and when they are he will keg them. And hopefully invite everyone over again to sample the fruits of his labor. I shall sacrifice myself to report on the final product.

The PubScout has attended backyard homebrewing sessions in the past, but never in winter temps with snow on the ground or with chestnuts exploding in an open fire and Jack Frost nipping at my nose.

But it was surely a great day.
Bookets and all.

Miller Time?

After a long day of travel, the missus and I decided we needed to stop for a bite and a brew. Being in the Woodbridge area, we chose to give the relatively new (to NJ, anyway) Miller's Ale House on Rt. 9 a shot. Born in Florida and now branching out, the chain has a place in Paramus that supposedly does $160,000 a week.

Yet, I had heard mixed reviews about the place, with one friend saying the food was terrible and the beer list was just OK. Another friend gave me the exact opposite account, claiming his was one of the best burgers he'd ever had, and the beer list was substantial and varied.

So in we went to learn for ourselves. To begin with, the place is cavernous, with no fewer than 70 TV's. Two huge rooms, one for dining, and one called "The Patio" sporting 26 TV's. The dining section was pretty packed with couples at tables and families and groups in booths. The sound level was relatively subdued, especially when compared with The Patio where  the "pub hubbub" was considerably greater. For a moment, I thought The Pope or Billy Graham was on TV, because so many of the bar patrons were yelling "Jesus Christ!" But it was just the NY Jets playing on MNF.

Manager Percy Gray allowed that The Patio was "usually a place for the 'younger crowd' to congregate," and we considered it rather a compliment to be escorted to a fireside seat there. There is actually a real patio outside The Patio where patrons can gather around a firepit and smoke, all while watching a huge HD TV. Must be neat in the Spring and Summer.

The Beer List offered something for everyone, IMHO, though it certainly wasn't "crazy" with beers for the true beer nut, especially one who has just returned from Belgium. Still, the draft offerings were adequate, while the bottles were more mainstream--and therefore ignored by The PubScout.

Our friendly and very pleasant server Rayna shared that Dogfish Head 120 was in the house, though not yet on the printed menu. I ordered an Old Reliable SA Winter Lager, and the missus, still on Belgian time, ordered a Stella.

Rayna & Captain Jack

The first thing I noticed about the food menu were the prices, which ranged from very reasonable to moderate. My "loaded" Philly Cheesesteak on a soft roll, which actually tasted like a real Philly Cheesesteak, was outstanding, and it came in under $10. The missus got what she said were 35 delicious shrimp for just a buck more. The Winter Lager worked perfectly with my dish, and her Stella did the same for hers. All the food is made fresh, and there's only one item that gets microwaved--not that there's anything wrong with that. Hint: it's up top on the appy menu.

Though we usually eschew dessert (it takes up too many calories that could be better spent on beer), we asked Rayna for a recommendation. She immediately suggested Cap'n Jack's Buried Treasure, with the ice cream cake made fresh on site. Suggestion: unless you're a big dessert eater, one order can easily satisfy two, and at just $5.95, it's a steal. There's also a decent Kids' menu with similar prices. Good beer, good food, filled bellies and a total tab of $42 isn't too bad these days.

Bottom line: Like The Terminator, I'll be back. The missus concurred.
And when that happens, it's like getting advice from The Oracle at Delphi.

Running With The Big Dogs Soon: The Little Dog Brewing Co.

It was a Little Dog Day afternoon for me and a horde of others who piled into Gretchen Schmidhausler's new digs. Of course, with Gretchen being the consummate organized professional, the hordes were invited in segments, orderly upon entering and beaming when they left.

Much of that had to do with the divine Ms. S and the way she goes about her business. After all, this is the first NJ Brewmistress to garner a coveted GABF Gold Medal, so she clearly knows what she--and her beer--is about. And awards like that do not go to those who are sloppy, haphazard--or lucky.

After having put in twelve successful years at Basil T's (now Birravino) in Red Bank, and having come up through the brewing ranks for years before that, Gretchen decided it was time to do her own thing. And her own thing involves water, malt, hops and yeast. And what she calls a "Frankenstein Brewing System."

Gretchen Schmidhausler and Frankenstein

Frankenstein notwithstanding, her own thing has retained all the quality of the endeavors that preceded it, winning her plaudits from not only the beer cognoscenti, but from regular beer nuts like yours truly. Her little ten-barrel brewery on Steiner Av. in Neptune City had four beers available today, something for every palate.

Upon entering this invitation-only event on a bright, but chilly, Saturday afternoon, this palate was pleasantly washed by an outstanding Copper Ale (Clare's favorite, btw). If this is the standard, I thought, she's in for a very good run.

But it wasn't just the Copper Ale that impressed. A gingery Pumpkin ale and a chewy, coffe-ish porter also were available. Most surprising to The PubScout was his own affinity for her Spicy Apple Ale. Its cinnamon and nutmeg, balanced with the slightly tart apple cider contained therein, produced an effect that was at first unusual. Then very pleasant. And then it became compelling.

So much so that I took a grunt of it and the Copper home.

The Apple and the Copper

Little Dog will not go fully commercial till after the first of the year. So this is a good time to get down there and see the place, sample the beers and chat with Ms. S. while her clothes are still relatively dry. Brewers are fond of saying, "If you ain't wet, you ain't working."

Even after that, The Little Dog Brewing Company will likely not cause The Big Dog Brewers to have any sleepless nights, especially in terms of volume. But knowing Gretchen and her passion for her product, that Little Dog will be nipping at lots of legs as it finds its way on to MainStream Street.

Cheers!
The PubScout

Life is Not a Dress Rehearsal...

At Bosteel's Brewery in Belgium...

After four days of work, I just finished my account of a beer trip to Belgium that has been on my bucket list for many years. It will be appearing at greater length in the upcoming issue of NJ Brew, so be on the lookout.

My affinity for Belgian beers began with Michael Jackson’s book event in NYC sixteen years ago.

Someday…someday, I kept saying.

And suddenly, someday was here.

The Grand Place, Brussels

 My dream trip is now a collection of memories and digital pictures—recollections of new places, new foods, new beers and new people, including the always delightful experience of making some new friends.

For The PubScout, beer is more than just a liquid to be imbibed, evaluated, assessed or categorized. It is tied inextricably to a moment and a place. I could get some Belgian beers and sit in my (or your) Barcalounger while drinking them, but it’s just not the same as drinking them while looking at a four hundred year-old cobblestone street, a five hundred year-old pub or a six hundred year-old church, all from a sidewalk or through a mullioned window from a fireside seat.

And special is the memory of sipping a Duvel, a Delirium Tremens, a Le Garre, a Kwak, a Tripel Karmeliet, a Chimay, a Westmalle Tripel, a Rodenbach Classic or Grand Cru, a Boon Kriek, a Brugse Zot Bruin, a Westvleteren 12, a De Struise Double Black or a Timmerman’s in just the right place, at just the right moment—and in just the right glass.

Good memories like that are the nuggets we take out as we age to warm ourselves, assuring our inner souls that a credo like “Life is not a dress rehearsal” has true worth.

 

Erica and Evan

I used to say that anyone who is a true Beer Nut owes it to himself to visit the GABF Festival in Denver at least once in his or her lifetime.

Same now goes for Belgium.

So when are you going?

Cheers!

The PubScout

Here are some pictures to motivate you. 

Havoc in Belgium?

This just in:

A NJ man is being sought by Belgian authorities for causing chaos at the Westvleteren Trappist Monastery during a recent visit there. Kurt Epps, a US beer fancier, got ten monks drunk with repeated toasts to their beer-making prowess, and while they were incapacitated, he made off with a dozen barrels of their world-renowned, rare--and very expensive-- beer. 

When the monks emerged from their beer-fueled reverie and discovered the heist, they ran down the cobblestone streets screaming obscenities, despite having taken lifelong vows of silence. Clutching rakes, pitchforks and hoes, they pursued the trickster on foot to no avail. Belgian police joined in the chase, but conceded that the culprit had "too much of a lead" for them to overtake him.

Using a horsecart he hijacked, and a driver who he plied with beer, Epps was last seen by Belgian peasants

--with whom he downed a half-barrel of the precious liquid-- headed towards the German border, where reports say he had arranged for the trove to be shipped to his central Jersey home via the Black Market. 

According to his sons, his plan is said to involve moving the contraband across the US southern border with Mexico, which he said, "is as porous as a colander," according to the trip organizers who overheard his plan during a morning drinking session.

"We thought he was kidding," said Larry Porter, organizer of the trip. "I guess he wasn't."

Porter, who owns a pub in Easton, PA, said, "I'm sure Kurt will contact me when he gets back in the US. We have a lot of beers at Porters' Pub, but we've never had Westvleteren."

"My husband doesn't kid about his beer," said his wife, Donna, who is being held for questioning by local monastic and police authorities. She said, "I was afraid this was going to happen. He's been wanting to come to Belgium for a long time. And when he saw the monastery, his eyes lit up."